Go away bear…

Weeks of aligning schedules, gear planning, securing farm sitters & prepping for our annual backcountry trip into the rugged Montana Pioneer Mountains. This year we would be heading to the special place where my hubby spent his summers since he was 14yrs old, where he proposed to me atop a ridge at Mount Tahepia & where we will finally spread my beloved Kena dogs ashes. We vowed this trip would happen this year as our teen kids are finally old enough to shlepp their own stuff on this particular hike not suited for the faint of heart.. Who knew we would find ourselves in a 50 minute fight or flight with a grizzly bear!

Our adventure began with a 12 hr power drive straight through from Gig Harbor. Finally setting up base camp by rock creek, under the beautiful pink evening sky. We had a restful sleep & great first day playing boche, hanging out on the rocks along the glacial creek, rushing cold & crisp down from our high altitude destination. Focused on prepping our packs for the 5 hour/ 2,000 elevation climb to the alpine lake where we planned to spend the next few days alone in our mountain paradise.

The Pioneer Mountain range is located in southwestern Montana, outside the Yellowstone bear recovery zone and not known for grizzlies. One of the few mountain ranges void of these large predatory animals and the reason we have always felt completely safe hiking to its beautiful alpine lakes with our kids, ever since they were toddlers. We were ready to go the next day by noonish, later than planned as usual. A native hummingbird flew into base camp, buzzing around our heads. Hummingbirds have been known to show up around our small farm often and the kids believe it to be their Papa watching over us, always bringing comfort.

The beginning of the hike was uneventful with lush green meadows filled with wildflowers, blooming strawberries, butterflies, magpies, an occasional scampering rock chuck. The tree canopy lined with gorgeous boulders, little streams running everywhere. I haven’t been back to this place since we started our family 17 years ago. Although we have spent many summers traversing the surrounding hills with our kids, this hike would prove to be much more difficult in more ways than one. Walking along, my mind was flooded with warm memories of a simpler time with my hubby, senses filled with the smell of ponderosa pine and my soul at peace.

At about 3 miles in, the hike begins to change from easy to difficult with climbing switchbacks and of course the two “bitchers” where you are questioning your sanity… Why did I pack all this stuff, why am I making my kids do this, what were we thinking, why did we spend a small fortune on all this light gear, none of it matters we are too old for this crap…At 6 miles and hours of gradual climbing, our youngest layed down on a cliff face in protest, refusing to go another inch. The accolades were no longer working, she was on to us. We convinced her to just leave her pack behind and Dad will come back for it later. Not ideal, but our only option to get her to move. She stood up and forged on. I grabbed her stuffed pink penguin & sweatshirt from the outside of her pack, cuz I am always a Mom, even though I am currently light headed & about to puke.

We crested the ridge with a glorious view of Mt Tahepia around 5pm and all of the sudden my achy body goes limp with relief. Making our way around the lake, we noticed it was very high with glacial run off, filling the borders, creating small estuarys and plenty of snow for storing a few liquid medicinals. We crossed through the horse camp, traversed the ridge and noticed some large animal scat that we quickly examined, looking fairly fresh with small hairs. Possibly a lone wolf passing through, no biggy and continued on. Finally setting up camp, rehydrating, celebrating & covering ourselves in bug spray, as the thawing landscape gives way to intense mosquitos this time of year. Our bodies exhausted, we enjoyed an evening under the stars with a perfect view of the Milky Way, rarely seen!

Just before turning in, my hubby announced that he was heading to the nearby creek to fill our water jugs, despite my nagging to wait till morning. This process takes 180 pumps per gallon to complete in the dark forest. nope.nada. A few minutes later, I saw his headlamp quickly returning, stating that he’d seen “predator eyes” on the rocks above. Deciding to forego the water till morning, much to my consolation. Likely a raccoon or bobcat and too tired for an encounter. The kids already out, we drifted off enjoying our new lightweight sleeping pads. Maybe all these expensive comforts, delivered daily from Amazon were worth it after all. We aren’t as young as we once were. Our chocolate lab growled some during the night, but otherwise we were in peaceful slumber tucked in under complete stillness…

The morning light brought immense beauty exactly as I remembered. The various colors of the peak glistened in the sun, as I prepared coffee over the campfire and stuffed exhausted kids with oatmeal. My hubby & daughter anxious to get down to the lake, boiling with hungry fish. We had a great morning, collecting wood, searching for big horn sheep in the high cliffs, catching cut throat trout & resting our achy bodies. An obsessed plant person, I took note of the varied wildflowers yet to bloom around our camp, wild current, carpets of huckleberries, so many colors. A fleeting thought passes..hmm if that scat was bear, there would be no sign of seeds, as it’s clearly not berry season yet. My experienced hubby consistently reassuring me in his decades coming here, has only seen black bear twice up this high. I sat on the warm rocks looking through the binoculars, taking in the beauty and spending quality time just chatting with my 16 yr old son. Looking forward to several days ahead of uninterrupted family time off the grid, immersed in the rawness of backcountry nature.

Mid morning, my husband and daughter walked through camp to stash her 1st fish of the trip in the snow, near where we had buried a few perishables the night before. All other food had been hoisted up & out with a pulley system, developed by my resourceful hubby always doing his best to appease my fears. Having grown up in bear country, this is a no brainer. My son & I were summoned over to the snow located below the ridge. There stood a large amount of scat and our cache unburried and gone..all gone. There would be no hotdogs or butter this trip. My Baileys (aka Moms fun juice) gone too!

We examined the crime scene like CSI detectives and determined that it was a medium sized carnivore of some type. Possibly an opportunistic cougar (worst case scenario), but likely a bobcat or raccoon and that we would be sure to stay alert & travel in pairs for the rest of our time here. Noting that the scat matched that of the type we saw hiking in. We went about our day, placing the newly caught fish in the nearby creek (hubby calls “the kitchen”) to keep fresh for dinner. Enjoying the clear blue sky, bald eagles and great conditions, all the while being aware that we had a visitor nearby.

A few hours later around 3ish, my hubby and I headed to filter water from the creek. As my teenage son was too tired to help out and insisted on a detailed plan as to when he would again access WiFi. Our dog followed, but I sent her back to camp, as she was doing a fine job of clouding up our watering hole. Would later realize how critical that insignificant command would be.

Enjoying some alone time just visiting creekside, discussing how we never get a chance to just talk in private. I watching my hubby carefully filtering the fresh glacial water, thinking this is the top of the world, there are no parasites here. As I capped off the first jug, I gazed over my husband and saw a large fuzzy animal quietly step out from the trees just a few feet behind us. As he sat peacefully on the rocks with pump in hand. I’ve never seen my hubbys large bald head look so small. I whispered “Holy shit it’s a brown bear” “get up, back up slowly, make yourself big” I nervously rambled…My hubby grabbed his gun and quickly turned to face the creature. I gathered some containers as we backed away quickly toward camp. The bear standing in the same position, watching us retreat. I realized by a few distinguishing features that this was a grizzly bear.

Backing into camp both shouting to the kids, “tie up the dog” “get behind the rocks”, with expletive after expletive following…The kids did as they were told, horror in their eyes, as we grabbed the many canisters of bear spray and grappled with the urgency of the situation. Wait a minute, he didn’t charge us. I felt a short sense of relief. My hubby went into protection mode pushing the kids behind him, he was going to protect his family & fight this bear to the death. period. amen. I have never been so grateful for his first responder skills and keen ability to handle stressful situations with ease. That finger steady on the trigger, but remaining calm and collected. We were both trembling on the inside. Myself swearing out loud uncontrollably. Our actions at that moment in time were critical as we would later learn.

We watched in horror as the bear came off the hill, crossing the creek and entered our immediate camp area. A nervous rapid fire conversation unfolded about what to do next. He stopped & stood on his haunches watching us over the hill. I noticed the bear looked scruffy and smallish compared to full size brown bears, which gave me some short lived relief. He must be young I thought, maybe just curious. Stupid girl. Those huge claws still able to rip through my skull. Every field article I’ve ever read about how to respond to grizzlies played out in my head. Born & bred in Montana, an avid outdoor person spending time in Alaska, Colorado & Washington. I’ve been met with a mad mamma moose, stealth like cougars, black bear sows etc.. but never have I been face to face with a grizzly in the wild! I instinctively knew we just had to get outta there.

We instructed the kids to start packing and stay behind the big rock. While I proceeded to stress talk our take care team (aka TCT affectionaly coined by my hubby) through every step. Always the sales gal, I tend to never stop talking, even as I’m about to be eaten alive. My hubby was dead silent, focused, climbing on a large rock to appear bigger, gun in one hand, bear spray in the other. I handed a bear canister to my son who was pleading with me “please mom we need to get outta here”. I replied, “no we are going to calmly pack our stuff, he’s not charging us, we have time, it will be okay.”

The bear retreated to the ridge above the creek where we met him, pacing in a Zigzag pattern, across the edge of camp, over the creek, then back up. Returning every few minutes, coming closer each time to stop and gaze at us. At one point he was maybe 20 feet away at best. I thought about how cute he was like a giant teddy bear, I wanted to snap a picture, but I was too shaky and rambling and swearing to reach for my phone, which I now deeply regret.

While we took turns keeping an eye on him, we worked furiously to pack up, nightfall was upon us. I asked my son for the time, it was a little past 4pm..I told our team we needed to be ready to go by 4:30 at the latest. Type A Mom, always setting goals. Backpacking out at night is a death wish. Our otherwise nonconformist teen boy stepped up big time, taking down the tent, deflating the mattresses and our overpriced gear on his own without a single complaint. While our baby girl cried uncontrollably, as she packed up her stuffies. Pleading that she could “no longer breathe”. All the while, our young chocolate lab Roxie laid in the shade asleep, tied to a tree, completely clueless. She wasn’t feeling well from her 1st ever difficult hike the day before. Perhaps it was the elevation. Whatever the reason, I was grateful for once this pup was quiet.

My hubby stood on that rock as a solid intimidating figure, while keeping an eye on that bears every move locked and ready to respond. We took turns on the rock to allow him to pack the complicated stuff. My turn to keep watch, I saw the bear walk across the edge of the camp even closer. I attempted to scare him off by blowing my whistle and clapping my hands “go away bear”. He stopped full stride and turned to face me head on. I realized at that moment that I had challenged him and I need not do that again. More uncontrolled expletives followed. My daughter cried louder.

We waited and watched for the bear to circle around us, praying it would stay in our sights, each one assigned to keeping watch in all directions. Discussion followed with the best window to make our break as we remain pinned against the lake, it was blocking our only exit. Grizzlies will often “bluff” charge and you never want to unload the bear spray, until the animal is within 50 feet, otherwise you will just piss them off. Certainly looked close enough to me.

We made our exit plan and repeated it back to each other over and over, while stuffing our remaining gear, ramshackle wherever it would fit. Weight distribution was the least of our worries. I loaded down my dogs pack with dried food. Sorry pup, but you weren’t my first born. We reviewed what to do if attacked, telling the kids that no matter what happens on the way out. DO NOT STOP MOVING. “You must continue marching toward the end of the lake, do not run, do not turn around, just keep marching and we will catch up with you” I stated. Making them repeat my instructions. Going over what to do if the bear pushes you down, protecting vitals etc. Tears streaming from both of their sweet innocent frightened faces. The bear returned again, “he’s back” we all echoed in unison. Even closer now within 20 feet. Finger on the bear spray trigger. He then quickly retreated once again. Grabbing a plastic bag from the creek. “He’s got the fish” my hubby whispered. He was taunting us. Scampering up the ridge baggie dripping from his mouth.

Okay this is it. Time to go” “everyone ready?” We quickly helped each other with our packs. Strapping on Roxies, extra bungees tied to her saddle bag with my last minute light weight hiking chair courtesy of Amazon Prime. Mom will lead with dog on leash, girl next, then boy, then Dad at the rear with gun. What about the rest of our gear still at the edge of camp, water filter, cordage, inflatable boat? We will need to abandon it. I hear a coaches voice “Let’s go team” was that my husband or did I say that? Feeling physically ill once again.

We hustled up the small ridge to the right and down the snow bank where a large hole remained from our stolen cache. Pausing at the most critical point, we will need to cross the creek into the bears territory. He was up on the ridge to the left somewhere, enjoying a tasty appetizer it wont be long before he returns. We hustled down the trail away from camp, while he watched us from the trees. We yelled “it’s okay bear” “just passing thru” “you can have your camp “all yours now buddy.” The crows were arguing above us on the ridge. My hubby reminding me how you must always listen to a crows warning.

We moved rapidly like soldiers down that mountain for 2 straight hours before stopping. My daughter constantly blowing the whistle, looking behind us all the way. Grizzlies are known to track you for miles. Our heads and eyes darted back and forth through the darkening forest, as we made our exit down the switchbacks. How can this be happening? Are we really hiking back down just 24 hours after hiking in? We didn’t even have time to spread my old dogs ashes, sitting on the shelf in a pine box for 10 fareeking years! None of it mattered. None of it. We were finally freed from feeling like trapped prey.

Please Lord don’t let us run into any more large game on our way out. The forest colors deepening with sunset, we hustled as fast as our legs would carry us. Still layered with our thermals, messy packs, empty stomachs & not at all prepared for such a hike…BUT at least we had 1 container of fresh filtered glacial water, void of bear feces. My daughter’s fleece pants falling down, quietly whimpering along the last few miles of flat trail. Suddenly she looked 5 years old again. These poor kids.

We finally make it to base camp as darkness fell. My daughter first to arrive, throwing her pack into the dusty fire pit, collapsing. My son followed, huge grin on his flushed face. Overwhelming emotion came over me, we all hugged and celebrated. Still hours from civilization and cell service, we were safe. Scarfing down some Dinty Moore, squished like sardines into the truck canopy to sleep for the night, shaken. There would be no more tent camping this trip. I lay awake all night, a marathon sequence of events running through my head, fearing our kids may never walk into the woods again. We will post a warning at the trail head in the morning. An angel in whatever form was watching over us up there..Kena’s ashes, Papa’s Hummingbird. Who knows, but I lay silent, listening to every sound of the forest, clutching my unopened can of bear spray. Grateful.

Update: Game Warden took our report & we reviewed behavioral detail with the local forest service Biologist. Key components from their perspective…First off, brown bears are extremely rare in this area. Warden questioned repeatedly about it being a light colored, black bear. I assured him, having spent 50 years in the woods, I know the difference. Biologist determining that it was likely a 2 yr old juvenile grizzly, recently booted from its mother. Possibly a female, as they are smaller than males 400lbs vs 800lbs. Although this mountain range is located outside the grizzly recovery area, it is also smack dab in the convergence surrounded by those zones as indicated below. Biologist believes it is likely that a grizzly could enter this area given that the recovery efforts over the years have been very successful as bears must compete for territory & food. Noting that others have definitely fed this bear, unintentionally, as it has learned to associate humans with food rewards. He said we did most everything right, creating distance, not challenging the bear, talking softly, standing our ground, restraining the dog (dogs aggravate bears) and getting out of there before nightfall. Apparently this encounter is known as a “passive attack” meaning that rather than a defensive posture, which is hostile behavior, grunting, vocalizations, etc, this bear was focused on us only, likely as a food source and possibly potential prey. The animal would most certainly have come in closer for more food. A rare, but dangerous situation, common among most species of bear in the evening hours. Sadly we were informed that given the behavior of this bear it will likely need to be dispatched….Friends, if you spend any time in the woods, keep in mind that bears are unpredictable, wild creatures that can kill you. It really doesn’t matter how familiar or experienced you are with the terrain. Bears travel hundreds of miles till they find what they need for survival. Be sure to study and learn how to respond when confronted by a Bear..black, brown, purple, small, large whatever. We had time to react, we were lucky.

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